Herausgeber_in: FEMNET e.V.
Redaktion: Marie-Luise Lämmle, Kristina Kleck unter Mitarbeit von Britta Amorin, Christoph Bartscher, Joachim Helbig, Susanne Hilsdorf, Heinz-Josef Houf, Achim Schneider (Stadt Bonn) sowie Annelie Evermann (WEED).

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Fairer Handel, Konsum, Nachhaltigkeit, öko-faire Mode, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:
Diese Broschüre ist das Ergebnis der Zusammenarbeit von FEMNET und der Stadt Bonn im Projekt „Gute Arbeit fairbindet – Faire öffentliche Beschaffung“. Sie richtet sich an Beschaffungsverantwortliche, die sich um eine soziale Einkaufspraxis für ihre Kommune bemühen, und an Organisationen, die sich erstmals mit dem Thema beschäftigen und einen Wegweiser durch die komplexe Materie wünschen.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 17 Seiten

Sprache: Deutsch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformation/ Lehrmaterial

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei femnet-ev.de

Print erhältlich über: FEMNET e.V., Kaiser-Friedrich-Str. 11, 53113 Bonn, www.femnet-ev.de

Herausgeber_in: Global Fashion Agenda & The Boston Consulting Group

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Bewertung, Fast Fashion, Konsum, Konsumverhalten, Lieferkette, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Ökobilanz, System, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion, Umweltschäden, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:
The fashion industry has a clear opportunity tact differently, pursuing profit and growth while alscreating new value for the world economy. It comes with an urgent need tplace environmental, social and ethical improvements on management’s agenda. In the first Pulse of the Fashion Industry report (May 2017), The Global Fashion Agenda, in collaboration with The Boston Consulting Group, have made an in-depth assessment of the industry’s environmental and social performance. Drawing on the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index and a survey of more than 90 senior managers responsible for sustainability issues and a variety of other sources, it offers the first comprehensive common fact base on the health of the industry – with a “Pulse Score” by type of company, size, region and stage in the value chain.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 74 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei copenhagenfashionsummit.

Herausgeber_in: India Committee of the Netherlands
Autor_in: Rosanne Hoefe, The Netherlands (Utrecht)

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsplatzsicherheit, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Befragung, Chemikalien, Diskriminierung, Gesundheitliche Schäden, Heimarbeit, Kinderarbeit, Leder, Lederproduktion, Lohn, ökologischer Fußabdruck, Prekäre Arbeitsbedingungen, Südindien, Tamil Nadu

Kurzbeschreibung:
The environmental impact of the leather industry is well known, with tanning being one of the most polluting industries in the world. Waste water from tanneries often contains high amounts of acids, salts and heavy metals. These toxic chemicals alsnegatively impact the health of workers, as has been documented by Human Rights Watch and many others. The short film ‘The Toxic Price of Leather’ by Sean Gallagher, for instance, strikingly illustrates the harmful effects on people and environment of extreme pollution caused by tanneries of the city of Kanpur, the biggest producer and exporter of leather goods in India. Less known are the many other sustainability and human rights issues related tthe leather and footwear production in India. This report explores labour conditions in the leather industry that are related tdeep-rooted social inequalities in Indian society. It highlights underlying structural issues that impact the labour conditions in the leather industry in India: caste and gender discrimination. ICN feels that tackling these structural social conditions is a crucial prerequisite for the success of any CSR initiative in the Indian leather industry.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 52 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei indianet.nl

Herausgeber_in: India Committee of the Netherlands
Autor_in: Marijn Peepercamp

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Empfehlungen, Kinderarbeit, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, sexuelle Belästigung, Spinnereien, Sumangali, Südindien, Tamil Nadu, Zwangsarbeit

Kurzbeschreibung:
The state of Tamil Nadu is the largest producer of cotton yarn in India and a global sourcing hub for readymade garments in recent years. The spinning mill industry is of major importance tthe state and tthe national economy. A publication by the Tamil Nadu government claims that India is the world largest cotton yarn producer after China, responsible for a little over one-fifth of yarn production worldwide. 35 t40% of this yarn is produced in Tamil Nadu, which is home tapproximately 1,600 mills employing between 200,000 and 400,000 workers. Approximately 30% of this yarn is used in the export factories in Tamil Nadu, whproduce for brands like C&A, H&M, Marks and Spencer, Primark, Walmart, Zara and a lot of other brands.An unknown share of this yarn is used in other garment hubs in India that produce garments for the export. Yarn produced in Tamil Nadu is alsused for the domestic market and for the production of exported home textiles. Furthermore, a 2012 estimation suggests that over 20% of the production is exported directly tgarment producing countries like Bangladesh and China.Previous SOMand ICN research identified five factories under the Bangladesh Accord for Building and Fire Safety whsource from twspinning mills in Tamil Nadu. Seven if your shirt is not ‘Made in India’, the yarn might be. The India Committee of the Netherlands has worked with SOM(Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations) and with Mondiaal FNV for several years now tdraw attention tthe deplorable working conditions in the Tamil Nadu mills.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2016

Umfang: 11 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei indianet.nl

Herausgeber_in: Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO), NOWCommunities
Autor_in: Vincent Kiezebrink, NOWCommunities

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsplatzsicherheit, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Befragung, Chemikalien, EU, Gesundheitliche Schäden, Gewerkschaft, Leder, Lederproduktion, Lohn, Pakistan, Prekäre Arbeitsbedingungen, Unternehmen und Menschenrechte

Kurzbeschreibung:
In Pakistan, leather is produced under deplorable conditions. Labourers work for long hours for low wages. Many suffer damage ttheir health, working with chemicals and unsafe heavy machinery. The European Union (EU) is the single most important export destination for Pakistani leather, and a sizeable portion of these imports goes tthe Netherlands. Pakistan falls under the EU’s Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP+), a trade scheme that aims tstimulate the protection of human rights by exempting specific developing countries from trade tariffs, on the condition that they ratify and implement core international conventions relating thuman and labour rights, the environment and good governance. While Pakistan’s leather industry has profited from this, interviews with workers reveal that they are still facing a wide range of labour rights violations.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2016

Umfang: 26 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei somo.nl

Herausgeber_in: Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO), Stop Child Labour

Autor_in: Martje Theuws, Virginia Sandjojo, Emma Vogt

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Asia Floor Wage, Bangladesch, Befragung, Einkaufspraktiken, Gewerkschaft, Kinderarbeit, Kinderrechte, Lebensstandard, Lohn, Unternehmen und Menschenrechte

Kurzbeschreibung:
The Stop Child Labour Coalition commissioned the Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO) tcarry out this research intwage levels and working conditions in the export-oriented garment industry in Dhaka, Bangladesh. The research specifically looks intthe relationship between wages and working conditions of adult workers and the extent twhich their children attend school or are engaged in paid/unpaid work. The objective of the research was tassess how the wages and working conditions of adult workers in export-oriented garment factories affect workers’ abilities tmeet basic needs, including housing, food and education. The aim is tanswer the following questions: Are the wages of adult garment workers sufficient tcover their family’s basic needs, including schooling costs for their children? Are the children of garment workers engaged in paid work in order tadd tthe family income sthat the family’s basic needs are covered? Are children of garment workers engaged in any unpaid work (e.g. household work)? If the children of garment workers dnot attend school, what are the reasons for this?

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 74 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei somo.nl

Herausgeber_in: Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO), Action Labor Rights (ALR), Labour Rights Defenders and Promoters (LRDP)

Autor_in: Martje Theuws, Pauline Overeem

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Befragung, Einkaufspraktiken, Firmenbefragung, Gewerkschaft, Kinderarbeit, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Myanmar/Burma, Multi Stakeholder Initiativen, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion

Kurzbeschreibung:
The garment industry is one of the most labour-intensive manufacturing industries in the world. Clothing companies are constantly on the look-out for production locations that can make clothes quickly and at low costs. Over the past few years, Myanmar has rapidly become a popular sourcing destination for the garment industry – due ta huge pool of cheap labour and favourable import and export tariffs. However, working conditions in this industry are far from acceptable. Labour rights violations are rife. Workers whare bold enough may file complaints or resort topen protests, news of which sometimes finds its way intinternational media. More often, workers toil on in silence. As well as describing the most pressing problems, the authors of this report offer suggestions for constructive ways forward thead off a crisis before it escalates.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 139 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei somo.nl

Herausgeber_in: Fair Action, Future In Our Hands

Autor_in: Maria Sjödin, Fair Action

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitsplatzsicherheit, Arbeitssicherheit, Arbeitsverträge, Ausbeutung, Flüchtlinge, Lieferkette, Lohn, Textilproduktion, Türkei

Kurzbeschreibung:
Thousands of Syrians whhave fled their war-torn home country are working in Turkey’s apparel factories. Most of them dnot have work permits and are desperate tearn an income, which makes them highly vulnerable texploitation by employers. Many Syrians in the Turkish garment sector are getting paid below the minimum wage, even though they work long hours in unhealthy and dangerous conditions. Cases of employment of Syrian refugee children have alsbeen reported. Turkey is the third-largest non-EU garment-exporting country tSweden and Norway after China and Bangladesh, and an important sourcing market for the Nordic clothing brands H&M, KappAhl, Lindex, Gina Tricot and Varner (BikBok, Cubus, Carlings, Dressman, Urban et al.). This study investigates how these five brands are tackling the risk of abuse and discrimination of Syrian refugees in their supply chains in Turkey

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 35 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei labourbehindthelabel.

Herausgeber_in: Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) , Human Rights Watch, International Corporate Accountability Roundtable (ICAR), International Labour Rights Forum ( ILRF), Maquila Solidarity Network, Worker Rights Consortium, IndustriALL, ITUC CSI IGB, UNI

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Firmenbefragung, Lieferkette, Textilindustrie, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:
The garment and footwear industry stretches around the world. Clothes and shoes sold in stores in the US, Canada, Europe, and other parts of the world typically travel across the globe. They are cut and stitched in factories in Asia, Eastern Europe, Latin America, or other regions. Factory workers in Bangladesh or Romania could have made clothes only weeks agthat consumers elsewhere are eagerly picking up. When global supply chains are opaque, consumers often lack meaningful information about where their apparel was made. A T-shirt label might say “Made in China,” but in which of the country’s thousands of factories was this garment made? And under what conditions for workers? There is a growing trend of global apparel companies adopting supply chain transparency—starting with publishing the names, addresses, and other important information about factories manufacturing their branded products. Such transparency is a powerful tool for promoting corporate accountability for garment workers’ rights in global supply chains. Transparency can ensure identification of global apparel companies whose branded products are made in factories where bosses abuse workers’ rights. Garment workers, unions, and nongovernmental organizations can call on these apparel companies ttake steps tensure that abuses stop and workers get remedies. This report takes stock of supply chain transparency in the garment industry four years after the industry disasters in Bangladesh and Pakistan that shook the global garment industry. Tbuild momentum toward supply chain transparency and develop industry minimum standards, a coalition of labor and human rights groups asked 72 companies tagree timplement a simple Transparency Pledge. It alsasked that companies declining tcommit tthe Pledge provide reasons for choosing not tdso. Where companies engaged with the coalition, the coalition alssought additional information about their existing transparency practices. This report explains the logic and the urgency behind the Pledge and describes the responses we received from the companies contacted.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 20 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei bei Clean Clothes Campaign.

Herausgeber_in: SÜDWIND e.V., INKOTA-netzwerk, TURC

Autor_innen: Anton Pieper, Prashasti Putri

Redaktion: Melanie Deter, Nora Große, Jannik Krone, Vera Schumacher

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Befragung, Diskriminierung, Empfehlung, Existenzlohn, extraterritoriale Unternehmenspflicht, Gewerkschaft, Heimarbeit, Indonesien, Leder, Lohn, Schuhe

Kurzbeschreibung:
Will man wissen, unter welchen sozialen und ökologischen Bedingungen Lederschuhe hergestellt werden, die in Europa getragen werden, lohnt sich ein Blick nach Indonesien. Trotz erster arbeitsrechtlicher Errungenschaften und weitreichender gesetzlicher Bestimmungen mangelt es oft an der praktischen Umsetzung dieser Gesetze. Die Arbeitsbedingungen in der gesamten indonesischen Leder- und Schuhindustrie in Indonesien müssen dringend verbessert werden, sdas Ergebnis der vorliegenden Studie. Dies gilt insbesondere in Bezug auf die prekäre und rechtlose Situation der zahlreichen HeimarbeiterInnen, aber auch für die Bereiche Arbeitsverträge, Löhne und Versammlungsfreiheit. Unternehmen tragen Verantwortung für die lückenlose Achtung grundlegender Menschen- und Arbeitsrechte entlang der gesamten Wertschöpfungskette.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 36 Seiten

Sprache: Deutsch; auch auf Englisch erhältlich mit dem Titel „Nexcuses for homework. Working conditions in the Indonesian leather and footwear sector“

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei SÜDWIND e.V.
 Die englischsprachige Studie gibt es hier kostenfrei.