Herausgeber*in: Global Deal

Schlagwörter: ACCORD, Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Capacity Building, Gewerkschaften, Nachhaltigkeit, Menschenrechte

Kurzbeschreibung:

Achieving social dialogue in garment supply chains presents many challenges. Those regions where the downstream parts of the global supply chains are often located may lack both a tradition of social

dialogue and the institutions that support it. With limited experience of social dialogue being available, suppliers and workers may not always be fully aware of its benefits, or familiar with the tools used in the process of social dialogue, and it therefore remains little used.

This is a missed opportunity, not only for workers but also for business, as social dialogue has proven to be a potential driver of stability, productivity and business performance. Social dialogue helps to avoid disruptive and costly conflicts by managing issues as they arise. By involving workers in organisational change, it can bring about a process that is smoother and more productive. By raising worker’s voice, it provides management with valuable information and insights from workers themselves. By fostering a more stable work force, it allows important savings on hiring and re-training of staff. In short, a stronger business emerges when workers and management work together.

This good case practice describes the actions that Fair Wear Foundation, a partner of the Global Deal, is undertaking in order to break through the potential stalemate in negotiations and achieve more social dialogue and better industrial relations in global garment supply chains.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2022

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 10 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende, Beschaffer*innen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Carnaval Filmes

Autor*in: Marcelo Gomes

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Jeans, Textilindustrie

Kurzbeschreibung:

In Toritama im Nordosten Brasiliens werden pro Jahr ca. 20 Millionen Jeanshosen hergestellt und verarbeitet. Neben den großen Textilfabriken wurden in Garagen und Hinterhöfen zahlreiche private Werkstätten gegründet, in denen die Bewohner der Stadt scheinbar selbstbestimmt arbeiten und sich das Arbeitspensum selbst einteilen können.

Marcelo Gomez’s Dokumentation gibt Einblicke in eine Stadt, in der die Mehrheit der Einwohner*innen von der Jeansproduktion leben und in der die Nähmaschinen nicht still stehen. – Ausgenommen von der Carnival Saison. Dann verwandelt sich Toritama in eine Geisterstadt alle reisen zum Feiern an die Küste. Um sich den Trip zur Küste zu leisten, verkaufen einige ihre Habseligkeiten wie Kühlschränke und Fernseher.

Die Dokumentation wurde 2019 auf der Berlinale gezeigt:

Aktuell ist die Doku in Deutschland nicht zum Streaming verfügbar, dies ändert sich jedoch gelegentlich. Infos gibt es in der google Suche oder auf den gängigen Streaming-Portalen.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Sprache: Portugiesisch

Dauer: 89 Minuten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Schüler*innen, Dozierende

Bezug: Infos zum Film

Herausgeber*in: Better Buying Institute

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Asien, CSR-Maßnahmen, Einkaufspraktiken, Lieferketten

Kurzbeschreibung:

This tool offers a new perspective on buyer-supplier relationships by examining those relationships through the lens of partnership quality. Using just 12 subjective measures, the BBPI opens up new opportunities to learn about the impacts of purchasing practices by enabling suppliers in a range of industries and supply chain tiers to participate.

A total of 679 ratings were received during the 2021 ratings cycle. One hundred buyers were rated, including 94 buyers in the Softgoods category and 6 in the Hardgoods category (buyers that sell product types other than apparel, footwear, and household textiles). Most ratings were for Softgoods buyers (519 ratings), while the remaining were for Hardgoods buyers (160 ratings).

The suppliers that submitted ratings were from 50 different countries and regions, with nearly half of the ratings coming from the following areas: China (16.2% of all ratings), Taiwan (10.3%), the United States (9.9%), Hong Kong (6.3%), and South Korea (5.9%).

Key takeaways:

• Suppliers are under much pressure: many buyers never, rarely, or sometimes providing enough time, adequate visibility, stable business, and fair financials
• Many buyers are missing opportunities to improve their businesses by not seeking their suppliers’ ideas for product and process innovation
• Suppliers seem to currently have a low bar for what they consider an acceptable business relationship
• Buyer supply chains are further threatened by potential supply disruption, higher costs, and increased reputational risks.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2022

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 8 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende, Beschaffer*innen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: AUTEX Research Journal

Autor*in: Adam Sadowski, Bogusława Dobrowolska, Beata Skowron-Grabowska, Andrzej Bujak

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Einzelhandel, Europa, Lieferkette, Marktdaten, Nearshoring, Polen, Textilindustrie

Kurzbeschreibung:

The article presents changes that took place in the textile and apparel (T&A) industry in Poland in the years 2004–2020. To describe the changes, we adopted the supply chain management perspective, which allowed for a global view of the changes taking place. We discuss the basic characteristics, such as the size and structure of the industry, innovation, production value, and the use of information and communications technology (ICT). In the research, we used the databases of the Central Statistical Office (GUS) on the sold production of the T&A industry, as well as imports and exports. Our research shows that, at the level of basic characteristics, the industry is close

to the European model. However, it is characterized by a smaller share of small companies in the structure of enterprises. The research showed an upward trend in the production of sold textiles and, to a lesser extent, apparel. At the same time, the operation of the Polish T&A industry is influenced by the import of finished products and raw materials from China, Germany, Bangladesh, and Turkey. The export is directed to the German, Czech, Romanian, and Ukrainian markets. The article provides an overview of the development trends in the Polish T&A industry in the broad context of international conditions.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 10 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Deutsches Institut für Menschenrechte

Autor*in: Jan-Christian Niebank

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Due Diligence, Gesundheit, Gewerkschaften, Lieferkette, Löhne, Menschenrechte, Textilindustrie, Verbesserungsvorschläge, Zwangsarbeit

Kurzbeschreibung:

The garment industry is an important economic growth engine for the Asia-Pacific region. It is also an industry with a rather poor human rights track record. This study seeks to take stock of developments in the global garment industry. It does so by analysing structural market characteristics and pressing human rights issues as well as existing instruments and initiatives. Specific attention is paid to the role of National Human Rights Institutions (NHRI) and to development policies in the global North. Analytically, the investigation is guided by the framework of the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGP). Important input for the study was obtained at a joint workshop held by the German Institute for Human Rights and the Asia Pacific Forum of National Human Rights Institutions (APF) in Bangkok in January 2017 at which NHRI representatives from Bangladesh, India, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, and Thailand shared their expertise on human rights issues in the garment industry and discussed the challenges their NHRIs are facing.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 78 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: SOMO

Autor*in: David Ollivier de Leth

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Due Diligence, Lieferkette, Lieferkettengesetz, Menschenrechte, Textilindustrie, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

This study analyses the limiting impact of using a company size threshold in future due diligence and corporate accountability regulation in the Netherlands and the EU. Based on an analysis of the Dutch textiles and garment sector as a whole and the companies participating in the Dutch Responsible Business Conduct (RBC) Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textiles (AGT), this study finds that any company size threshold would very strongly limit the number of companies covered by future due diligence legislation. If a high company size threshold, as currently applied in the French Duty of Vigilance Law and the German Supply Chain Law, were to be used in future Dutch and EU due diligence regulation, this would mean only a very limited number of companies would have to comply with mandatory due diligence obligations. In contrast, small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), just like large enterprises, face severe risks in their value chains and can be directly linked or contribute to human rights violations or environmental damage.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 30 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: SOMO

Autor*in: Martje Theuws

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Asien, Bangladesch, Leder, Lederproduktion, Lieferkette, Marktdaten, Menschenrechte, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

The report maps key Bangladesh-based leather manufacturers and foreign buying companies. Understanding production trends and exports and knowing relevant actors in the industry is essential to establish links between the leather industries in Bangladesh, the export markets and all actors involved, as well as for demonstrating gaps in traceability and transparency in leather value chains generally. This mapping lists a number of key manufacturers of leather and leather goods as well as a number of key buyers of these products.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 17

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC)

Autor*in: Neva Nahtigal and Muriel Treibich

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Due Diligence, Menschenrechte, Multi Stakeholder Initiativen, Textilindustrie, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

This publication on mandatory human rights due diligence calls for concrete and comprehensive binding regulations which ensure responsible business conduct. It puts the spotlight on brands’ unfair purchasing practices at the root of human rights violations, their reliance on the flawed social auditing system, the lack of occupational safety, gender inequality, poverty wages, persistent attacks freedom of association, the acute lack of value chain transparency and lack of effective remedy in cases of human rights violations which take place on a mass scale.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 46 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management

Autor*in: Tara Springer, Alice Payne, Gary Mortimer

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Fast Fashion, Konsummuster, Konsumkritik, Nachhaltig Konsumieren

Kurzbeschreibung:

Despite publicised worker-welfare violations, many fashion retailers continue to post record sales and profits, indicating that consumer concern does not always translate at the cash register. Research has shown that worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fashion consumers, and the aim of this research is to investigate the reasons why this may be the case.

Due to the exploratory nature of the research, a qualitative methodology was deemed the most appropriate. Twenty-one semi-structured interviews were conducted with Australian fast-fashion consumers to investigate the underlying reasons worker-welfare violations are less likely to elicit pro-social consumer behavioural change and are a less salient area of concern.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 42 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Asia Floor Wage Alliance (AFWA) and other organisations in Asia

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID19, Existenzlohn, Frauen, GBVH, Löhne, Nachhaltigkeit, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

The study documents women garment workers’ experiences of genderbased violence and harassment (GBVH) in the wake of COVID-19 pandemic in Asian production countries. It elaborates “economic harm” as a form of GBVH, underscoring how the business models of global apparel brand and their actions during the pandemic-induced recession exacerbated women worker’s vulnerability to violence both inside the factories and in their homes, families, and communities, leading the feminisation of the COVID-19 crisis.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 101 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download