Herausgeber*in: Öko Institut e.V.

Autor*in: Peter Gailhofer, Carola Glinski, Julia Ludwig und Maren Diener

Schlagwörter: Audits, Bekleidungsindustrie, Lieferkette, Menschenrechte, Nachhaltigkeit, Regulierung, Textilindustrie, Zertifizierung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Over the past few decades, the production and consumption of clothing has increased exponentially, leading to a dramatic increase in the negative environmental consequences produced by the fashion industry. Given the rising pace of global warming and the rising concern about the fashion industry’s contribution to the climate crisis and its exploitative social dimensions, decision makers, politicians and government officials have begun to promote sustainable fashion through public policy. This article reviews the main barriers facing a circular economy in general and the fashion industry in particular. It considers nascent regulations emerging throughout the world in the field of sustainable fashion, applying circular economic principles to the fashion industry. Four categories of policy proposals are evaluated: Command and Control Interventions, Educational Initiatives, Incentives and Certification, grading them according to criteria of effectiveness, sustainability, feasibility, equity and compliance. The ranking process was based on an elicitation of expert judgement among a panel with expertise in the areas of sustainable fashion from the business sector, academia and civil society. Findings suggest that while some policy options appear to meet all criteria successfully, when selecting an optimal strategy for promoting sustainable fashion, there are frequently trade-offs between different alternatives.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Deutsch

Umfang: 88 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende, Beschaffer*innen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Textile Exchange

Schlagwörter: Baumwollanbau, Bodenbeschaffenheit, Klimawandel, Lieferkette, Nachhaltigkeit, regenerative Landwirtschaft, Textilien, Schafswolle, Umweltbelastung

Kurzbeschreibung:

With companies risking disruptions to fiber production from climate impacts and biodiversity loss, at Textile Exchange we believe that a transition to regenerative agriculture is fundamental to the long-term health of the sector. Regenerative practices can play a key role in helping farmers develop more resilient systems, bringing immense social and environmental benefits.

The Regenerative Agriculture Landscape Analysis offers a deeper understanding of tools, programs, initiatives, and guidance on the subject. It highlights how important it is for brands to clearly define their own use of the term, and to ensure that social justice, equity, and livelihoods are meaningfully embedded in any project deemed regenerative.

Key takeaways:

• The long-term health of the fashion and textile industry will depend on how it is able to work with farmers to develop more resilient systems, and regenerative practices offer immense social and environmental benefits
• Regenerative agriculture can’t be defined in a single statement or set of practices.
• Programs should be rooted in justice, equity and livelihoods.
• Regenerative agriculture is about much more than increasing soil carbon levels.
• We need to move out of silos to speed up the transition.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2022

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 111 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende, Beschaffer*innen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: European Environment Agency - European Topic Centre Circular Economy and Resource Use

Autor*in: Saskia Manshoven, Anse Smeets, Christian Malarciuc, Anna Tenhunen, Lars Fogh Mortensen

Schlagwörter: Bekleidungsindustrie, Europa, Kunstfasern, Lieferkette, Mikroplastik, Textilindustrie, Umweltverschmutzung, Waschen

Kurzbeschreibung:

Textiles and plastics are two of the key product value chains that are considered a priority in the EU Circular Economy Action Plan (EC, 2020a). As a result, the EEA has devoted specific attention to textiles and plastics in the circular economy, building the knowledge base on the textiles and plastics systems, their environmental and social impacts, and potential pathways to more sustainable and circular systems.

The briefing Textiles in Europe’s Circular Economy (EEA, 2019) and its underpinning ETC report Textiles and the environment in a circular economy (ETC/WMGE, 2019) highlighted the sector’s significant environmental impacts, ranking textiles as the fourth most significant in the use of primary raw materials and water – after food, housing and transport, and fifth for greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. The study also highlighted that synthetic fibres have overtaken cotton in the production of clothing, household textiles and technical textiles.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2022

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 61 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: AUTEX Research Journal

Autor*in: Adam Sadowski, Bogusława Dobrowolska, Beata Skowron-Grabowska, Andrzej Bujak

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Einzelhandel, Europa, Lieferkette, Marktdaten, Nearshoring, Polen, Textilindustrie

Kurzbeschreibung:

The article presents changes that took place in the textile and apparel (T&A) industry in Poland in the years 2004–2020. To describe the changes, we adopted the supply chain management perspective, which allowed for a global view of the changes taking place. We discuss the basic characteristics, such as the size and structure of the industry, innovation, production value, and the use of information and communications technology (ICT). In the research, we used the databases of the Central Statistical Office (GUS) on the sold production of the T&A industry, as well as imports and exports. Our research shows that, at the level of basic characteristics, the industry is close

to the European model. However, it is characterized by a smaller share of small companies in the structure of enterprises. The research showed an upward trend in the production of sold textiles and, to a lesser extent, apparel. At the same time, the operation of the Polish T&A industry is influenced by the import of finished products and raw materials from China, Germany, Bangladesh, and Turkey. The export is directed to the German, Czech, Romanian, and Ukrainian markets. The article provides an overview of the development trends in the Polish T&A industry in the broad context of international conditions.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 10 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: Deutsches Institut für Menschenrechte

Autor*in: Jan-Christian Niebank

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Due Diligence, Gesundheit, Gewerkschaften, Lieferkette, Löhne, Menschenrechte, Textilindustrie, Verbesserungsvorschläge, Zwangsarbeit

Kurzbeschreibung:

The garment industry is an important economic growth engine for the Asia-Pacific region. It is also an industry with a rather poor human rights track record. This study seeks to take stock of developments in the global garment industry. It does so by analysing structural market characteristics and pressing human rights issues as well as existing instruments and initiatives. Specific attention is paid to the role of National Human Rights Institutions (NHRI) and to development policies in the global North. Analytically, the investigation is guided by the framework of the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGP). Important input for the study was obtained at a joint workshop held by the German Institute for Human Rights and the Asia Pacific Forum of National Human Rights Institutions (APF) in Bangkok in January 2017 at which NHRI representatives from Bangladesh, India, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, and Thailand shared their expertise on human rights issues in the garment industry and discussed the challenges their NHRIs are facing.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 78 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: SOMO

Autor*in: David Ollivier de Leth

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Due Diligence, Lieferkette, Lieferkettengesetz, Menschenrechte, Textilindustrie, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

This study analyses the limiting impact of using a company size threshold in future due diligence and corporate accountability regulation in the Netherlands and the EU. Based on an analysis of the Dutch textiles and garment sector as a whole and the companies participating in the Dutch Responsible Business Conduct (RBC) Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textiles (AGT), this study finds that any company size threshold would very strongly limit the number of companies covered by future due diligence legislation. If a high company size threshold, as currently applied in the French Duty of Vigilance Law and the German Supply Chain Law, were to be used in future Dutch and EU due diligence regulation, this would mean only a very limited number of companies would have to comply with mandatory due diligence obligations. In contrast, small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), just like large enterprises, face severe risks in their value chains and can be directly linked or contribute to human rights violations or environmental damage.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 30 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber*in: SOMO

Autor*in: Martje Theuws

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Asien, Bangladesch, Leder, Lederproduktion, Lieferkette, Marktdaten, Menschenrechte, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

The report maps key Bangladesh-based leather manufacturers and foreign buying companies. Understanding production trends and exports and knowing relevant actors in the industry is essential to establish links between the leather industries in Bangladesh, the export markets and all actors involved, as well as for demonstrating gaps in traceability and transparency in leather value chains generally. This mapping lists a number of key manufacturers of leather and leather goods as well as a number of key buyers of these products.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 17

Zielgruppe: Studierende, Dozierende

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC)

Autor_innen: Artemisa Ljarja, Dr. Bettina Musiolek

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Europa, Existenzsichernder Lohn, Lieferkette, Menschenrechte, Mindestlohn, Rumänien, Transparenz, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Die Clean Clothes Campaign hat gemeinsam mit Textilarbeiter*innen vor Ort einen einheitlichen existenzsichernden Lohn für europäische Billiglohnländer errechnet. Die Lücke zwischen den gezahlten und existenzsichernden Löhnen ist in Ländern wie Rumänien und der Ukraine noch immer enorm. Durch den Richtwert haben Modeunternehmen nun eine Orientierung, welche Löhne sie in Kalkulationen mit ihren Zulieferfirmen berücksichtigen müssen. Zudem soll der Richtwert auch als Leitlinie für das EU-Parlament gelten.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Umfang: 28 Seiten

Sprache: Deutsch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene, Schüler_innen Sek. I/II, Berufsschule

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: IHRB & Chowdhury Center for Bangladesh studies at UC Berkeley

Autor_innen: Sanchita Banerjee Saxen, Nancy Reyes Mullins, Salil Tripathi

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechte, Bangladesch, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID-19, Corona, Gesundheit, Krise, Lohn, Lieferkette, Menschenrechte, Politik, Standards, Studie, textile Kette, Unternehmensverantwortung, Untersuchung

Kurzbeschreibung:

The RMG industry, which accounts for approximately 80% of Bangladesh’s total exports, is a major contributor to the country’s economic advancement. As the coronavirus12 spread across the world in early 2020 and a lockdown in Bangladesh became inevitable, businesses were forced to respond quickly to the evolving situation. This report seeks to capture the responses of global brands and the subsequent effects on workers in the immediate aftermath. The report is drawn from indepth interviews with international brands, Bangladeshi suppliers, representatives of the international civil society, and Bangladeshi labour activists. It seeks to understand the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on the industry and the workers. It proposes changes to policies and practices that can lead to long-term changes that would benefit global retailers, suppliers, and workers.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 71 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: University of Sheffield’s, Sheffield Political Economy Research Institute (SPERI), Worker Rights Consortium (WRC)

Autor_in: Genevieve LeBaron, Penelope Kyritsis, Perla Polanco Leal, Michael Marshall

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Äthiopien, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID-19, Corona, Gesundheit, Indien, Interviews, Lieferkette, Lohn, Menschenrechte, Myanmar, Politik, textile Kette, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

The Covid-19 pandemic has exposed and amplified inequities and instabilities within the global garment supply chains feeding United Kingdom (UK), United States (US), Canadian, and European Union (EU) consumer markets. In March 2020, as lockdowns were imposed and consumer demand for clothes plummeted, MNCs cancelled orders and refused to pay for apparel that had already been produced.1 Even as governments made vast public funds available to help them weather disruption and shocks, many MNCs continued to eschew contractual obligations and transfer losses and risks onto their supply chain partners overseas.
The key aims of the research are to:
1) understand and compare whether, to what extent, and how the Covid-19 pandemic is deepening worker vulnerability to forced labour (Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar)
2) determine and compare how company and government responses to the pandemic are shaping patterns of inequity within the garment supply chain
3) investigate how governance in global garment supply chains has changed during the pandemic and with what consequences for workers and companies
To explore these questions, the research complied a new primary dataset between September 2020 and April 2021, consisting of:

• Quantitative digital survey of workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar
• Interviews with workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, and India
• Expert interviews
• Database of 2020/2021 annual financial statements and sustainability reports and government information about pandemic business financing and assistance and social protection

 
Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 59 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download