Herausgeber_in: University of Sheffield’s, Sheffield Political Economy Research Institute (SPERI), Worker Rights Consortium (WRC)

Autor_in: Genevieve LeBaron, Penelope Kyritsis, Perla Polanco Leal, Michael Marshall

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Äthiopien, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID-19, Corona, Gesundheit, Indien, Interviews, Lieferkette, Lohn, Menschenrechte, Myanmar, Politik, textile Kette, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

The Covid-19 pandemic has exposed and amplified inequities and instabilities within the global garment supply chains feeding United Kingdom (UK), United States (US), Canadian, and European Union (EU) consumer markets. In March 2020, as lockdowns were imposed and consumer demand for clothes plummeted, MNCs cancelled orders and refused to pay for apparel that had already been produced.1 Even as governments made vast public funds available to help them weather disruption and shocks, many MNCs continued to eschew contractual obligations and transfer losses and risks onto their supply chain partners overseas.
The key aims of the research are to:
1) understand and compare whether, to what extent, and how the Covid-19 pandemic is deepening worker vulnerability to forced labour (Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar)
2) determine and compare how company and government responses to the pandemic are shaping patterns of inequity within the garment supply chain
3) investigate how governance in global garment supply chains has changed during the pandemic and with what consequences for workers and companies
To explore these questions, the research complied a new primary dataset between September 2020 and April 2021, consisting of:

• Quantitative digital survey of workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar
• Interviews with workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, and India
• Expert interviews
• Database of 2020/2021 annual financial statements and sustainability reports and government information about pandemic business financing and assistance and social protection

 
Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 59 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: International Labour Organisation (ILO)

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Afrika, Äthiopien, Befragung, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID-19, Gesundheit, Lohn, Politik, soziale Verantwortung, textile Kette, Transparenz, Untersuchung

Kurzbeschreibung:

The negative economic and public health shocks of COVID-19 are reverberating in Ethiopia, and in particular in the country’s garment and textile sector.
A global collapse in demand for garments has been witnessed since the first quarter of 2020, following measures by governments to slow the spread of the pandemic. Restrictions on movement and economic activity has produced widespread retail closures and effects throughout supply chains, including prompting factory production suspensions and workforce layoffs. Cancellation of orders has left some garment manufacturers unable to pay workers as required.
A survey among Ethiopian manufacturers in April revealed the average capacity utilization rate had decreased by 30 per cent in Q1 2020 relative to the same period in 2019. Fully half of management respondents in the same survey said they expected employee layoffs in the second quarter of the year. Ethiopia has yet to reach its expected peak of COVID-19 infections, but the pandemic has accelerated in the country. As of the first week in June, the World Health Organization stated that there have been over 2,000 confirmed cases of the virus in the country. Factories are on high alert with regard to efforts to prevent, contain, and address fallout from the spread of the disease. As yet, no clusters of cases have been reported in major industrial zones in the country.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Umfang: 14 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei als PDF

Herausgeber_in: MVO Netherland

Autor_in: Giovanni Beatrice, Jean-Baptiste Damestoy, Frans Tilstra, Marjolein van Gendt

Schlagwörter: Afrika, Äthiopien, Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, Baumwolle, Export, Globalisierung, Gender, GBVH, Lieferkette, Lohn, Nachhaltigkeit, Portraits, Soziale Verantwortung, Tipps für in der Bekleidungsbranche Tätige, Umweltschäden

Kurzbeschreibung:

Ethiopia is a promising country for the future of apparel manufacture, looking at its youthful population of 110 million, its rapid development with an anticipated continued annual GDP growth rate of 8%, low labour costs and preferential conditions in trade with the U.S. and the EU. Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in the textile and garment sector is growing and so is its export.
However, the country also offers challenges, both commercial and in terms of environmental sustainability and ethical business behaviour. Cotton, fabrics and accessories need to be imported. Import/export regulations are complicated and time consuming. Workers are relatively untrained and unskilled and efficiency is very low. In addition, there is worry among stakeholders and (potential) buyers about issues such as living wage and the freedom of association in Ethiopia.
The overall objective of the report is to describe the comparative benefits and risks (SCP and commercial) of sourcing textile garments from Ethiopia. The aim is to inform potential buyers of the current status of the industry; it does not aim for scientific precision.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Sprache: Englisch

Umfang: 34 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Beschaffer_innen,Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: PDF zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Water Witness International

Autor_in: Nick Hepworth, Rami Narte, Esayas Samuel, Serge Neumand

Schlagwörter: Afrika, Äthiopien, Bekleidungsindustrie, Corona, Globalisierung, Klima, Klimawandel, Lieferkette, Marken, Marokko, soziale Verantwortung, Textilindustrie, Umweltverschmutzung, Wasserverbrauch

Kurzbeschreibung:

This report is an output of the ‘Putting Water Stewardship to Work Programme‘ which aims to embed responsible water use at the heart of the growing textiles and apparel sectors in Africa. With support from the Swiss Agency for Development Cooperation (SDC), the initiative targets technical support to ‘sherpa’ countries in the fashion value chain to establish the value of improved water stewardship for the sector, for delivery of the Sustainable Development Goals and for shared water security (see boxed definitions). Lessons will be shared across Africa, and across the global fashion sector to support the transition to sustainable resource use. Our study explores the importance of the textile and apparel sector for economic and social development in Africa and identifies the priority water challenges facing the industry. It complements related studies on the cotton sector, at a national scale in Ethiopia, and in the textiles and apparel sector globally.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 100 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Worker Rights Consortium (WRC)

Autor_innen: y Snetsehay Assefa Tegegn, Maria Hengeveld

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Armut, Äthiopien, globale Bekleidungsindustrie, Lieferketten, Länderbericht, Löhne, Menschenrechte, Mindestlohn, Studie

Kurzbeschreibung:

As global brands continue their relentless quest for low-cost production locations, Ethiopia is emerging as a coveted destination. This report presents the results of an investigation of the labor rights environment in Ethiopia’s growing textile and apparel export sector. The investigation included in-depth interviews with garment workers at four export factories producing for leading brands. It reveals wages that are lower, by a substantial margin, than those in any other significant exporting country and grim working conditions that bear little resemblance to the standards the brands claim to be upholding in their supply chains.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Umfang: 33 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Herausgeber_in: industriALL union

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Äthiopien, Bekleidungsindustrie, Existenzsichernde Löhne, Frauen in der Bekleidungsindustrie, Gewerkschaften, Lohn, Living Wage, Mindestlohn, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Ethiopia’s economy has grown quickly over the last few years, from an agricultural economy to an industrializing one. The country now has one of the highest economic growth rates in Sub-Saharan Africa. Industrial parks like Hawassa are part of the government’s plan to create jobs. The Ethiopian Investment Commission touts low wages and other benefits to attract investment. The government has set up the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute, and industrial parks have been built across the country to promote light manufacturing.

But what does the special focus given to the textile and garment sector mean for factory workers? What does it mean for union organizing? Unions are concerned that the country will replicate the mistakes of other low wage economies, undermining unions to keep wages low.

This short article gives a short overview about the situation of wages and women’s right in the garment sector in Ethiopia.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 2 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Ethiopia’s Emerging Apparel Industry: Options for Better Business and Women’s Empowerment in a Frontier Market

Herausgeber_in: Roskilde Universitet, Center of African Economics

Autor_innen:     Cornelia Staritz, Lindsay Whitfield

Themen:             Wertschöpfungskette/Globalisierung/Welthandel

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Äthiopien, Entwicklung, Fallbeispiele, globale Bekleidungsindustrie, Lieferketten, Lokale Textilproduktion, Länderbericht, Nachhaltigkeit, Perspektiven

Kurzbeschreibung:
The apparel export industry in Ethiopia began modestly in the 2000s, but increased significantly by the mid-2010s and will continue to do so in the coming years, positioning Ethiopia to be an important supplier country in the globalized apparel industry.

This paper provides an overview of the emergence and evolution of the apparel export sector in Ethiopia. It argues that the EPRDF government’s pro-active industrial policy played an important role in the development of the sector. While foreign firms are an important driver behind the growth of apparel exports, there are also locally owned firms exporting apparel, which makes Ethiopia distinct from most other Sub-Saharan African apparel exporter countries. Ethiopian-owned apparel firms exhibit diverse ownership patterns, including state-owned, party-owned, and private sector-owned firms. The first phase of industrial policy particularly focused on incentivizing local investment in apparel production for export while later phases of industrial policy shifted the focus to attracting foreign direct investment, in order to boost exports and generate employment more quickly as well as bring knowledge and global networks into the country. Despite the focus on exports, the EPRDF government simultaneously has pursued import-substitution policies in the textile and apparel sector, which has helped the development of locally owned apparel firms by subsidizing the cost of learning to export as well as building a national supply chain from cotton to textile to apparel. The challenges for the government’s industrial policy approach is to retain the focus on local firms given their important role in productive transformation and to ensure incentives and support for local firms to export, and through this to increase their capabilities and value added, despite the existence of a protected domestic market.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 34 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Made in Ethiopia – Challenges in the garment industries new frontier

Herausgeber_in: NYU Stern Center for Business and Human Rights

Autor_innen:       Paul M. Barret; Dorothée Baumann-Pauly

Kategorien:

Themen:              Unternehmenskritik/Arbeitsbedingungen

Zielgruppe:         Student_innen

Erwachsene

Medien:               Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Afrika, Äthiopien, Arbeitsbedingungen, Lohn, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

In recent years, Ethiopia has launched a bold economic and social experiment by inviting the global garment industry to set up shop in the East African country. Drawn by newly built industrial parks and a range of financial incentives, manufacturers from some of the world’s best-known brands – among them, H&M and PVH (Calvin Klein, Izod, Tommy Hilfiger) – employ tens of thousands of Ethiopian workers in a nascent sector the government predicts will one day have billions of dollars in sales.

This report provides a close look at the flagship Hawassa Industrial Park, a vast and still only partly filled facility which currently employs 25,000 workers about 140 miles south of the capital of Addis Ababa. It examines the working conditions, including the very low wages, points at shortcomings and workers’ rights violations and formulates recommendations to the Ethiopian government as well as international brands.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 20 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download