Herausgeber_in: University of Sheffield’s, Sheffield Political Economy Research Institute (SPERI), Worker Rights Consortium (WRC)

Autor_in: Genevieve LeBaron, Penelope Kyritsis, Perla Polanco Leal, Michael Marshall

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Äthiopien, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID-19, Corona, Gesundheit, Indien, Interviews, Lieferkette, Lohn, Menschenrechte, Myanmar, Politik, textile Kette, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:

The Covid-19 pandemic has exposed and amplified inequities and instabilities within the global garment supply chains feeding United Kingdom (UK), United States (US), Canadian, and European Union (EU) consumer markets. In March 2020, as lockdowns were imposed and consumer demand for clothes plummeted, MNCs cancelled orders and refused to pay for apparel that had already been produced.1 Even as governments made vast public funds available to help them weather disruption and shocks, many MNCs continued to eschew contractual obligations and transfer losses and risks onto their supply chain partners overseas.
The key aims of the research are to:
1) understand and compare whether, to what extent, and how the Covid-19 pandemic is deepening worker vulnerability to forced labour (Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar)
2) determine and compare how company and government responses to the pandemic are shaping patterns of inequity within the garment supply chain
3) investigate how governance in global garment supply chains has changed during the pandemic and with what consequences for workers and companies
To explore these questions, the research complied a new primary dataset between September 2020 and April 2021, consisting of:

• Quantitative digital survey of workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, India, and Myanmar
• Interviews with workers in Ethiopia, Honduras, and India
• Expert interviews
• Database of 2020/2021 annual financial statements and sustainability reports and government information about pandemic business financing and assistance and social protection

 
Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 59 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Autor_in: Sabine Dreßler, Ansgar Gilster, Veronique Mußmann

Herausgeber_in: Evangelische Kirche in Deutschland

Kurzbeschreibung:

Mit einem Materialheft nimmt die Evangelische Kirche in Deutschland (EKD) die Produktionsbedingungen in der Textilindustrie in den Blick. Ob in Bangladesch, Indien, Indonesien oder Osteuropa: die Einschränkung oder Verletzung von Menschenrechten, von Arbeits- und Sozialgesetzen ist an der Tagesordnung.

Das Materialheft bietet Hintergrundinformationen zu Produktionsstätten von Textilien sowie Interviews mit Näherinnen und Nähern, Informationen zum bestehenden internationalen Rechtsrahmen und dazu, wie und wo Käufer und VerbraucherInnen sich engagieren können. Es informiert über Bündnisse zur Verbesserung der Arbeitssituation von Näherinnen und Nähern, zur Unternehmensverantwortung und welche Projekte Unterstützung geben, damit Menschen ihre Rechte kennen und einfordern können. Darüber hinaus zeigt das Heft, wie das Thema Modeproduktion inzwischen kritisch wahrgenommen wird: in Ausstellungen, Dokumentationen, Film und Literatur 

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Umfang: 86

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug:  kostenfrei zum Download

Autor_in: Ruchira Naved, Tabassum Rahman, Samantha Willan, Rachel Jewkes, Andrew Gibbs

Schlagwörter: Bangladesch, Bekleidungsindustrie, Frauen, Frauen in der Bekleidungsindustrie, Gewalt, Heimarbeit, Interviews, sexuelle Belästigung, Belästigung am Arbeitsplatz

Kurzbeschreibung:
The ways in which women's engagement in paid work shapes their experiences of violence in the home and workplace is widely debated, particularly in Bangladesh, but rarely considered together. We undertook 23 in-depth interviews with female garment workers living in slums in Bangladesh, and nine interviews with key informants (factory managers and supervisors, male workers, and employees from non-governmental organisations). Data came from two studies conducted in Dhaka, Bangladesh – the first between August and September 2011 and the second between June and August 2015 - and were analysed using thematic analysis. In both settings, women experienced similar forms of violence, including emotional, physical, sexual, and economic, although from different perpetrators. Despite violence in the home and violence in the workplace typically being considered separately, we identify four overlaps between them. First, violence in both settings is shaped by how patriarchal norms and structures of institutions intersect with institutions economic structures. Second, dominant representations of female garment workers as sex workers or sexually promiscuous enables violence against them. Third, economic violence is used as a way to control and limit women's autonomy. Fourth, women develop strategies to continue working and maximize the benefits of work for themselves. Finally, we suggest how interventions could work to prevent violence in the home and workplace.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 150 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download (nach Anmeldung)

Herausgeber_in: Fashion Revolution, Microfinance Opportunities, C&A Foundation 

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Situation der Textilarbeiterinnen, Situation junger Arbeiterinnen, Lohn, Studie, Interviews

Kurzbeschreibung:
The Cambodia Garment Worker Diaries tell the story of female garment workers economic lives and their working conditions. It was a yearlong study of the lives of roughly 540 female garment workers in Bangladesh, Cambodia and India. In Cambodia, MFO selected 186 participants from communities in Phnom Penh and Kampong Speu. The study takes the workers’ wage, expenditures, live in the factory and the coping strategies with financial stress into account. 

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: ca. 23 pro Studie

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Downloaden

Autor_in: Stefan Winter, Rainer Lasch

Schlagwörter: Nachhaltigkeit, Lieferkette, Standards, Ökostandards, Sozialstandards, Unternehmensverantwortung, Monitoring, Zulieferer, Zulieferfabriken, Interviews, Kinderarbeit, Zwangsarbeit, Wasserverbrauch, soziale und ökologische Folgen

Kurzbeschreibung:
Due to environmental and social problems with suppliers, companies have included sustainability criteria in their supplier evaluation. However, there is little research on the application of environmental and social criteria and related purchasing practices. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine how companies apply environmental and social criteria in supplier evaluation. Interviews with purchasing experts from the fashion and apparel industry were conducted. The results indicate that no child labour, working hours, no forced labour, no discrimination, employment compensation, freedom of association, and health and safety practices are commonly used as social criteria, whereas end-of-pipe control (wastewater treatment systems) and environmentally friendly materials are used as environmental criteria. New criteria, for example, housing conditions and home worker conditions, were identified as not having been suggested in the literature on supplier evaluation. The discussion herein examines the application and the importance of sustainability criteria in the supplier evaluation process. Environmental and social criteria are applied in pre-qualification as well as verification of the compliance of the purchasing requirements in supplier controlling. However, these criteria are not important in the final selection of a supplier for an order as is often recommended in the literature. Consequently, sustainability criteria are indeed important for supplier evaluation but do not carry the same importance that many papers assign them. The research findings contribute to the literature on sustainable supply chain management with empirical insights about the application and importance of environmental and social criteria in supplier evaluation. Furthermore, the identified sustainability criteria can be used by practitioners to improve supplier evaluation efforts.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2016

Umfang: 15 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: Bezug: Kapitel aus Journal of Cleaner Production Volume 139

Für Studenten und Fakultätsmitglieder ist diese Studie kostenfrei unter verfügbar.

Herausgeber: SOMO Stichting Onderzoek Multinationale Ondernemingen, Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations

Schlagwörter: Frauen, Frauenrechte, Gender, Arbeitsrechte, Portraits, Interviews, Personen, Aktivistinnen

Kurzbeschreibung: Die holländischen Organisationen the Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO) und The India Committee of the Netherlands (ICN) haben eine Folgestudie unter dem Titel „Maid in India“ veröffentlicht, die die Arbeitssituation der Textilangestellten in den Indien in den Blick nimmt. Die Lebens- und Arbeitssituation junger, oft unter 18-jährigen Dalit-Frauen, den sogenannten "Unberührbaren", sowie das Sumangali-Schema werden dabei ausführlich dargestellt und die bisherigen Bemühungen der europäischen und UA-amerikanischen Bekleidungshersteller kritisiert.

Der Bericht ist eine erneute Untersuchung von „Captured by Cotton“, in dem die ausbeuterischen Bedingungen in der Tamil Nadu Bekleidungsindustrie dokumentiert wurden. Als Reaktion auf den Bericht von 2011 versprachen europäische und amerikanische Markenunternehmen und Einzelhändler den Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen Einhalt gebieten zu wollen und konkrete Schritte zur Verbesserung der Situation einzuleiten. Ein Jahr später überprüften SOMO und ICN Anspruch und Wirklichkeit.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2012

Umfang: 71 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: Kostenfrei als PDF-Download

Herausgeber: Clean Clothes Campaign

Schlagwörter: Frauen, Frauenrechte, Gender, Arbeitsrechte, Portraits, Interviews, Personen, Aktivistinnen

Kurzbeschreibung: This 128-page publication published by the CCC International Secretariat includes feature articles on important themes relating to gender and labour rights and 17 profiles of women involved in different ways in the movement for garment workers' rights.

This publication is part of a broader drive within the Clean Clothes Campaign to provide a gender analysis of labour rights issues, and specifically to document and re-state gendered concerns that relate to workers’ rights in the garment and sports shoe industries. Also it is part of CCC efforts to document examples of initiatives that do address these concerns, and to present ideas on how these concerns should be explicitly integrated in the work of the CCC.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2007

Umfang: 128 Seiten

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Sprache: Englisch, Französisch, Spanisch

Bezug: Kostenfrei als PDF-Download