Herausgeber_in: FEMNET e.V., Bonn; Inkota Netzwerk, Südwind e.V.

Autor_innen: Christian Scheper

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen, Lehrmaterial

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bekleidungsindustrie, COVID-19, Corona Pandemie, Einkaufspraxis, Gesundheit, Lieferkette, Lohn, Menschenrechte, Sicherheit, Sozialstandards, Transparenz, Verhaltenstipps

Kurzbeschreibung:

Der „Synthese-Bericht: Auswirkungen von COVID-19 auf die Textilindustrie“ (PDF-Datei)stellt auf Grundlage einer systematischen Analyse bestehender Berichte konkrete Handlungsoptionen und Best Practices zusammen. Die Handlungsoptionen zeigen, wie Unternehmen negative Auswirkungen der COVID-19-Krise auf Arbeiter*innen in der Lieferkette vermeiden oder zumindest mildern können und so menschenrechtlichen Sorgfaltspflichten nachkommen.

Mit diesem Bericht will die Zivilgesellschaft im Textilbündnis die Diskussion über Lehren aus der COVID-19-Krise im Textilbündnis weiter anregen und zur Schärfung eines „neuen Normals“ in der textilen Lieferkette beitragen, in dem gute und transparente Geschäftsbeziehungen und nachhaltige Einkaufspraktiken dominieren.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Umfang: 41 Seiten

Sprache: Deutsch

Bezug:  Informationen auf der Website  oder kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei

Die Achtung von Menschenrechten entlang globaler Wertschöpfungsketten – Risiken und Chancen für Branchen der deutschen Wirtschaft

Herausgeber_in: adelphi consult GmbH in Zusammenarbeit mit Ernst & Young GmbG

Autor_innen: Weiss, Daniel; Bibiana Garcia, Pia van Ackern, Lukas Rüttinger, Patrick Albrecht, Marlene Dech und Jutta Knopf

Kategorien:

Themen:             Wertschöpfungskette/Globalisierung/Welthandel

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene, Dozent_innen

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Bekleidungsindustrie, Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien, Globalisierung, Lieferkette, Leder, Menschenrechte, Studie, Textile Kette

Kurzbeschreibung:

Die Studie ermittelt, welche menschenrechtlichen Risiken entlang der Wertschöpfungskette von Branchen der deutschen Wirtschaft vorliegen können. Darauf basierend erfolgt eine kriteriengeleitete Eingrenzung auf elf Fokusbranchen. Für diese Branchen wird durch Desktop-Recherche und Interviews mit Branchenakteuren und -akteurinnen sowie weiteren Anspruchsgruppen erfasst und analysiert, welche Branchenaktivitäten zur Ausübung menschenrechtlicher Sorgfalt in den Fokusbranchen bereits umgesetzt werden.

Ab S. 182: Branchenübersicht zu „Bekleidung und Leder“

Erscheinungsjahr: 2020

Umfang: 316 Seiten

Sprache: Deutsch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Addressing SCP in the fashion and apparel sector
SCP = sustainable consumption and production

Herausgeber_in: Switch Asia (SCP Facility) (gefördert von der EU)

Autor_innen: Dr. Jürgen Hannak, Dr. Mohammad Abbas Uddin, Mohammad Azad Rahman Siddique, Jana Hack, Franziska Sophie Kohler

Kategorien:

Themen:             Umweltschäden/Baumwollanbau/Kunstfasern

                            Wertschöpfungskette/Globalisierung/Welthandel

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene, Dozent_innen

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Asien, Bekleidungsindustrie, Chemikalien, Globalisierung, Klima, Konsum, Länderprofil, Leder, Nachhaltigkeit, Sorgfaltspflicht, Sozialstandards, Textilfasern, Textilindustrie, Umweltschäden, Umweltschutz

Kurzbeschreibung:

The study clustered target countries in regards to SCP-policy (sustainable consumption and production) related development and implementation progress, as well as the gaps and action required regarding the SCP framework. The main objective of the scoping study is to define the scope and challenges regarding SCP in the fashion and apparel sector to better identify thematic priority areas for a regional action programme at national level to develop approaches and resolutions to some of the most persistent and critical issues, such as safety and working conditions, gender, health, water use and chemical products, waste generation and management, alternative energy use, resource efficiency, eco-labelling and procurement, as well as sustainable consumption behavior along the entire value chain of the fashion and apparel sector.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 133 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Autor_in: Gershon Nimbalker, Jasmin Mawson, Claire Harris, Meredith Rynan, Libby Sanders, Claire Hart, Megan Shove

Herausgeber_in: Baptist World Aid Australia, Trustfund

Kurzbeschreibung:

The role of the global apparel and footwear industries has shifted far beyond meeting a basic human need. The relationship with fashion in our modern lives has had a collateral and significant impact on our planet’s resources.

As we face urgent environmental and social challenges caused by climate change and resource depletion, the efficacy of solutions will depend on the creativity, innovation and boldness so characteristic of the fashion industry. It’s time for players to change the trajectory. This report encourages actors in the industry to set ambitious, evidence-based environmental impact reduction goals to drive meaningful change to secure a more sustainable future for fashion.

With a view to drive bold Climate Action from the apparel and footwear industries, Quantis carried out a comprehensive study of the environmental impacts across both industries’ value chains. The

core objective is to inform on the current state of these industries’ environmental performance and provide robust data to inform and empower them to use a science-based approach to reduce their impact (for example, by aligning with the Science Based Targets initiative or other leading initiatives). A special focus is put on greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions as well as water impact.

Stemming from this overarching ambition, the goals of the present study were defined as follows:

• Quantify the apparel industry’s global environmental impacts across various indicators
• Assess data gaps to be addressed in further studies
• Study both historic and future data points to highlight trends and compare corresponding impact growth rates
• Provide key data-driven takeaways that can be used to promote industry-wide environmental progress of the apparel and footwear industries

Erscheinungsjahr: 2018

Umfang: 65

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug:  kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Clean Clothes Campaign

Schlagwörter: Bekleidungsindustrie, Billiglohnproduktion, existenzsichernder Lohn, Existenzsichernder Lohn, Existenzlohn, Europa, Osteuropa, Sweatshop 

Kurzbeschreibung:
Presentation highlighting the wage gap in the garment and shoe industry in Central, East and South East Europe. There is a dramatic gap between the actual wages garment workers receive and the cost of living in Central, East and South East Europe. The implementation of labour laws is failing and having a detrimental impact on workers’ lives.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 32 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textiles

Schlagwörter: Bekleidungsindustrie, niederlande, Unternehmensverantwortung, MultistakeholderInitativen, MSI

Kurzbeschreibung:
Many businesses in the Netherlands have outsourced their production to countries outside the European Union. These are countries where human rights, worker health and safety, environmental protection and animal rights may be at risk. Dutch companies are obliged to avoid these risks under international guidelines and agreements such as the United Nations’ Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, the OECD’s Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises, and the ILO’s fundamental labour standards. Under the OECD Guidelines, for example, businesses must investigate the extent to which they could be implicated in human rights, environmental or animal welfare violations. This is known as due diligence. Problems in emerging markets in the developing world are often so complex that there is very little one company can achieve alone. That is why a broad coalition of partners has signed the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile. They include industry associations, trade unions, NGOs, and the National Government of the Netherlands Commitment. The businesses and organisations that sign the agreement commit themselves to fighting discrimination, child labour and forced labour. They also undertake to support a living wage, health and safety standards for workers, and the right of independent trade unions to negotiate. In addition, they will do everything in their power to reduce the negative impact of their activities on the environment, to prevent animal abuse, to reduce the amount of water, energy and chemicals that they use, and to produce less chemical waste and waste water. Transparency is a critical factor when it comes to identifying risks and working together to make improvements. One of the first steps was for the participating companies to share their production sites, an aggregated list of which has been made available. They also agreed on the project method. Results. The aim is for at least 50% of the Dutch garment and textile sector to support the agreement by 2018, and 80% by 2021. We intend to see an improvement in working conditions and/or wages in textile-producing businesses as well as in animal welfare and environmental protection. More and more garments and textiles will be produced under better and safer conditions, and a growing number of shops will be able to meet the consumer demand for fair and sustainable products.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 8 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: somo

Autor_in: Esther de Haan & Martje Theuws

Schlagwörter: Bekleidungsindustrie, Fair Wear Foundation, Ostafrika, Niederlande

Kurzbeschreibung:
Global garment brands and retailers are continuously looking for cheap(er) production locations; as a result speed and low costs have become important requirements for manufacturers. Rising minimum wages in countries such as China and Vietnam have led to a shift in production, first to Bangladesh, later to Myanmar and now Ethiopia is said to become the next hub for textile and apparel sourcing. Mondiaal FNV commissioned SOMO to conduct a short mapping (‘Quick Scan’) of the Ethiopian garment industry. The aim of the requested Quick Scan was to identify which international brands and retailers are currently sourcing garments from Ethiopia as well as the linkages that exist between the Ethiopian garment industry and the Dutch market. Mondiaal FNV is working together with CNV and the Fair Wear Foundation in a five year partnership with the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs (2016-2020). One of the countries the partnership will focus on is Ethiopia, where the organisations intend to work together with local partners to stimulate social dialogue, to establish a living wage and to reduce gender discrimination.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 30

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung, Clean Clothes Campaign

Autor_in: Mirela Arqimandriti, Megi Llubani, Artemisa Ljarja

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsbedingungen in Europa, Befragung eines Betriebs, Existenzlohn, Bekleidungsindustrie, Empfehlungen, Schuhe

Kurzbeschreibung:
The country study of Albania gives an overview of the Albanian garment and shoe sector. Going further, the study provides facts of the wages paid for garment and shoe workers as well as it gives information about the working conditions in Albania. Furthermore, Interviews were conducted with 52 workers in 4 factories. The study closes with recommendations for action.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2016

Umfang: 39 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Autor_in: Ruchira Naved, Tabassum Rahman, Samantha Willan, Rachel Jewkes, Andrew Gibbs

Schlagwörter: Bangladesch, Bekleidungsindustrie, Frauen, Frauen in der Bekleidungsindustrie, Gewalt, Heimarbeit, Interviews, sexuelle Belästigung, Belästigung am Arbeitsplatz

Kurzbeschreibung:
The ways in which women's engagement in paid work shapes their experiences of violence in the home and workplace is widely debated, particularly in Bangladesh, but rarely considered together. We undertook 23 in-depth interviews with female garment workers living in slums in Bangladesh, and nine interviews with key informants (factory managers and supervisors, male workers, and employees from non-governmental organisations). Data came from two studies conducted in Dhaka, Bangladesh – the first between August and September 2011 and the second between June and August 2015 - and were analysed using thematic analysis. In both settings, women experienced similar forms of violence, including emotional, physical, sexual, and economic, although from different perpetrators. Despite violence in the home and violence in the workplace typically being considered separately, we identify four overlaps between them. First, violence in both settings is shaped by how patriarchal norms and structures of institutions intersect with institutions economic structures. Second, dominant representations of female garment workers as sex workers or sexually promiscuous enables violence against them. Third, economic violence is used as a way to control and limit women's autonomy. Fourth, women develop strategies to continue working and maximize the benefits of work for themselves. Finally, we suggest how interventions could work to prevent violence in the home and workplace.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 150 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download (nach Anmeldung)

Autor_in: Shafiqul Islam

Schlagwörter: Bangladesch, Bekleidungsindustrie, Frauen, Frauen in der Bekleidungsindustrie 

Kurzbeschreibung:
The recent breakthrough in the feminization of employment that took place in the Ready-made Garment (RMG) industries of Bangladesh has been accompanied by vigorous debate among scholars, policymakers and stakeholders about its effect on women in terms of gender in/equality. Because although women’s labor force participation tends to increase with economic development, this relationship is often not straightforward or consistent with the elimination of gender discrimination. Based on an analysis of this debate on gender inequality of labor market, this paper explores how garment female workers view and experience gender inequality in their everyday lives in respect to family-market-state relations. Applying a range of qualitative method and revisiting dual-systems theory, the analysis draws on in-depth interviews with twelve female garment workers and on interviews with thirty female garment workers at three garment industries located in different areas of Dhaka city. Empirical findings demonstrate that the new feminization of employment in the ready-made garment industries has portrayed the coexistence and intersections of multiple gender disparities within male-dominated power structures both at family and workplace. It is also evident that capitalist interests along with patriarchal norms and values influence the use of women as a cheap, flexible and docile labor to earn the maximum profits at the minimum possible cost. Findings further reveal that the role of the state is also insufficient to ensure gender equality in the ready-made garment industries. The paper concludes that the increasing rate of feminization of employment in Bangladesh ready-made garment industries does not coincide with the elimination of gender disparities to any larger extent.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2016

Umfang: 13 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download