Herausgeber_in: Innovation Forum

Autor_in: Tanya Richard & Dr Peter Stanbury

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Baumwolle, Bekleidungsindustrie, Blockchain, CSR, Mode, Nachhaltigkeit, Siegel, Standards, Textilindustrie, Viskose, Wasserverbrauch

Kurzbeschreibung:

This Sustainable Apparel Barometer is intended to promote an understanding of what best practice looks like in the world of sustainability in the apparel sector. It aims to help companies in the industry create even more robust strategies and practices. The textile and apparel sector is under intense scrutiny over its environmental and social impacts.

 
Erscheinungsjahr: 2021

Umfang: 68 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Student_innen, Erwachsene

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Public Eye, Schweiz

Autor_innen: Kollbrunner, Timo

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, CSR, Corporate Social Responsibility, Einkaufspraktiken, Lieferkette, Lohn, Transparenz, Türkei, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Der Textilgigant Inditex, zu dem auch die Marke Zara gehört, präsentiert sich gerne als transparentes Unternehmen, dem das Wohlergehen seiner Näherinnen besonders am Herzen liegt. Eine Recherche von Public Eye (Schweiz) zu den Produktionsbedingungen eines symbolträchtigen Zara-Hoodies gewährt einen Blick hinter diese Kulisse: Dumpinglöhne, exzessive Überstunden, prekäre Arbeitsverträge. Für den massiven Preisdruck, den der Modekonzern auf seine Zulieferer ausübt, bezahlen am Schluss die Arbeiterinnen und Arbeiter. Laut einer mit Partnern der Clean Clothes Campaign erstellten Schätzung verdient Inditex an jedem Kleidungsstück zwei Mal mehr als alle in der Herstellung involvierten Personen zusammen.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Sprache: Deutsch

Bezug: online auf publiceye.ch

Herausgeber_in: Clean Clothes Campaign, Human Rights Watch, International Corporate Accountability Roundtable, International Labor Rights Forum, Maquila Solidarity Network, Worker Rights Consortium, IndustriALL Global Union, ITUC CSI IGB, UNI Global Union

Zielgruppe:        Student_innen, Erwachsene

Medien:              Hintergrundinformationen

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, CSR, Lieferketten, Transparency Pledge, Transparenz, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

Transparency about supply chains in the garment and footwear industry is a rapidly growing trend. The complex network of global suppliers that apparel and footwear companies use to produce their goods is much less opaque than only a few years ago. Knowing factory details enables workers, labor organizations, human rights groups, and others to swiftly alert apparel company representatives to labor abuses in those factories, giving companies an opportunity to intervene—sooner rather than later— to stop and rectify abuses. It also facilitates brand collaboration and collective action to stop, prevent, mitigate, and to provide a remedy for labor abuses.

In 2016, nine human rights and labor rights organizations, together with global unions, formed a coalition to improve transparency in garment and footwear supply chains. The coalition reached out to more than 70 companies with own-brand label products, urging them to publish on their websites a list of the names, addresses, and other details of at least the factories involved in assembling, embellishing, and finishing their goods (called tier-1 factories).

After the coalition’s first report in 2017, the 2019 report now shows a significant increase in the number of companies that have published the details of their tier-1 supplier factories (35 percent of 200 brands). The report presents different levels of progress, identifies barriers for supply chain transparency and takes a closer look at the cases of online retailers. In addition to that, the coalition summarizes company transparency practices, points out the advantages of technology and gives general recommendations.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 20 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download als PDF-Datei oder Kurzfassung auf Deutsch

Herausgeber_in: Exklusiv im Ersten, ARD

Autor_innen: Edith Dietrich, Catrin Risch

Redaktion: Detlef Flintz, Simon Pützstück

Schlagwörter: Altkleider, Chemikalien, CSR, Konsum, Nachhaltigkeit, Schadstoffe, Umwelt

Kurzbeschreibung:

Ob es um Ernährung, Technik oder Kleidung geht - wir verbrauchen immer mehr. Vor allem bei Kleidung kennt der Konsum kaum Grenzen. Fürs gute Gewissen geben sich die Anbieter gerne "grün", werben mit Öko-Siegeln. Was ist davon zu halten?

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 28:38 Minuten

Sprache: Deutsch

Bezug: kostenfrei verfügbar in der ARD Mediathek

Herausgeber_in: Better Buying Institute

Autor_in: Dickson, Marsha A.

Schlagwörter: CSR, Lieferkette

Kurzbeschreibung:

The Better Buying Index Report, 2019, for the first-time ever, presents a geographic analysis of the purchasing practices of brands and retailers in the apparel, footwear, and household textile sector as experienced by their global suppliers headquartered in key locations around the world. An analysis of differences in brands’ and retailers’ performance is presented to compare the relatively “better” and “worse” practices used across supplier locations. The Index Report compiles performance of 71 leading brands and retailers based on 802 ratings submitted by suppliers headquartered in 52 countries. Scores are based on a five-star scale from zero stars (worst performance) to five stars (best performance).

Better Buying is a global initiative that provides retailers, brands, and suppliers a cloud-based platform to obtain data-driven insights into purchasing activities. Better Buying’s transparency fosters sustainable partnerships and mutually beneficial financial results and other outcomes. Anonymous supplier ratings of buyer purchasing practices obtained by the independent third-party initiative are aggregated, scored, and made available to the participating retailers, brands, and suppliers with the goal of accelerating change and industry-wide improvements across supply chains.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 44 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Garment Supply Chain Governance Discussion Paper Series, No. 01/2017

Autor_innen: Rachel Alexander, Sarah Ashwin, Nora Lohmeyer, Chikako Oka, Elke Schüßler

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, CSR, Gewerkschaft, Lieferkette

Kurzbeschreibung:

Faced with limits of the dominant forms of private regulation, lead firms in global production networks (GPNs) are increasingly turning towards new approaches involving more collective and labour-inclusive approaches to tackle substandard labour conditions. Two notable examples of such new governance initiatives in the global garment industry are the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh (the   Bangladesh Accord)   developed in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza disaster, and Action Collaboration Transformation (ACT), a living wage initiative spearheaded by a group of garment brands and retailers. What is unique about these agreements is that they are inclusive of trade unions (local and/or global) and transnational in nature, covering supply chains of multiple multinational corporations. These initiatives, which we term transnational collective industrial relations, stand in stark contrast to firm-specific, unilateral corporate codes of conduct, which have been the dominant model of private governance since the 1990s.

This paper explores evolving relationships among lead firms and other stakeholders in the emerging field of transnational industrial relations. Considering the experiences of major German and UK garment retailers and brands, we examine how involvement in transnational collective industrial relations has influenced lead firms’ relationships to other stakeholders, particularly rival firms and unions. Data considered is mainly based on interviews with German and UK garment lead firms and members of global union federations (GUFs). Initial findings indicate that lead firms increasingly view GUFs as important and legitimate partners for managing labour challenges in GPNs. Lead firms also positively describe intensified collaboration with rival firms. We discuss whether evolving interfirm and firm-union relations in the global garment industry can be seen as promising steps towards institutionalizing collective forms of transnational labour regulation with potentially better outcomes for labour standards. Through this research, we seek to contribute to the literature on global labour governance by shedding light on the foundation of new governance solutions, particularly the dynamically evolving relationships among lead firms and other stakeholders as collective actors.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 21 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Garment Supply Chain Governance Discussion Paper Series, No. 02/2017

Autor_innen: Schüßler, Elke; Lohmeyer, Nora

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, CSR, Lieferkette

Kurzbeschreibung:

This paper examines whether the Rana Plaza disaster of 2013 has changed the approach by which German garment retailers govern their supply chains, particularly with regard to labour standards issues. We analyse institutional developments and firm-level initiatives that have resulted as a response to the Rana Plaza disaster and the heightened public attention that German garment retailers have received regarding labour standards. Our analysis is based   on   interviews   with   large   German   garment   brands   and   retailers   as   well   as representatives from multi-stakeholder initiatives, unions, and NGOs and on information available in public statements by institutional initiatives and industry statistics. On the institutional level, we find that massive political attempts to regulate labour standards in global supply chains have been initiated and describe these with regards to their aims as well as the actors involved. On the firm level, we observe a more multi-layered process, with some   firms being increasingly proactive regarding labour standards issues and others engaging more reluctantly in new initiatives and practices. We describe these patterns in detail and discuss them in light of the wider German institutional infrastructure in which lead firms are embedded. We thereby contribute to a better understanding of the German garment retail sector, in particular institutional and firm-level approaches governing labour standards in global garment supply chains in light of this country’s political economy.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 27 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Garment Supply Chain Governace Discussion Paper Series, No. 03/2017

Autor_innen: Stephen J. Frenkel, Kazi Mahmudur Rahman, Shahidur Rahman

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bangladesch, CSR, Sicherheit

Kurzbeschreibung:

The tragic 2013 Rana Plaza building collapse in Bangladesh represented a focusing event (Birkland, 1998) that galvanized key transnational and national stakeholders into developing and implementing policies aimed at improving factory safety in Bangladesh while being cognizant of the need to uphold related international labour standards. Drawing mainly on a survey of 50 Bangladeshi garment factory managers part of a larger project that includes lead firms based in Australia, Germany, the UK and Sweden we investigate three aspects of contemporary supply chain governance. These are: 1) relationships between lead firms, mainly based in the developed countries, and factory management regarding business in general and labour standards in particular; 2) factory responses to a new institutional ensemble of organizations requiring improvements in building safety; and 3) relationships between   factory   management   and   employees,   both   in   terms   of   procedural   (worker representation) and substantive (pay and working conditions) aspects. While progress had been made in improving building safety and lead firm-factory relations appear to be positive and durable, questions remain regarding treatment of employees.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 24 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: Garment Supply Chain Governance Discussion Paper Series No. 01/2019

Autor_innen: Kabeer, Naila; Huq, Lopita; Munshi, Sulaiman

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Bangladesch, CSR, Gewerkschaft, Lieferkette, Sicherheit, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:

The collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh in April, 2013 resulting in the death and injury of more than 2000 workers from the country’s export garment industry was one of the worst industrial disasters in recorded history. The tragedy galvanized a range of stakeholders to take action to prevent future disasters. Prominent in these efforts were two multi-stakeholder agreements which brought together lead buyers, trade unions and NGOs in a concerted effort to improve health and safety conditions in the industry. These initiatives represent a move away from the buyer-driven compliance-based model that continues to dominate CSR to what is being described as a ‘cooperation-based’ model, which brings   together   multiple   stakeholders   who   affect,   and   are   affected,   by   the   business operations of lead multinational corporations (MNCs) in global value chains. This paper is concerned with the experiences and perceptions of workers with regard to these new initiatives. It examines competing interpretations of stakeholder analysis within the CSR literature and uses these to frame its key research question: has the shift from compliance to co-operation as the basis of CSR been a promising way forward or merely a shift in rhetoric? We use a survey of garment workers to explore the extent to which these initiatives have brought about improvements in wages and working conditions in the garment industry, where progress has been slowest and why.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 70 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download

Herausgeber_in: erschienen in Journal of Business Ethics, November 2019, Volume 159, Issue 4, pages 1047-1064

Autor_innen: Fontana, Enrico; Egels-Zandén, Niklas

Schlagwörter: Bangladesch, CSR, Lieferkette

Kurzbeschreibung: Local supplier corporate social responsibility (CSR) in developing countries represents a powerful tool to improve labour conditions. This paper pursues an inter-organizational network approach to the global value chain (GVC) literature to understand the influence of suppliers’ collective behaviour on their CSR engagement. This exploratory study of 30 export-oriented and first-tier apparel suppliers in Bangladesh, a developing country, makes three relevant contributions to GVC scholarship. First, we show that suppliers are interlinked in a horizontal network that restricts unilateral CSR engagement. This is justified in that unilateral CSR engagement is a source of heterogeneity in labour practices; consequently, it triggers worker unrest. Second, we present and discuss an exploratory framework based on four scenarios of how suppliers currently engage in CSR given their network’s pressure toward collective behaviour: unofficial CSR engagement, geographic isolation, size and competitive differentiation, and external pressure. Finally, we show the need to spread CSR homogeneously among suppliers and to reconceptualize the meaning of CSR in developing countries, encouraging more scrutiny toward horizontal dynamics.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2019

Umfang: 17 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download