Autor_in: Duygu Turker, Ceren Altuntas

Schlagwörter: Fast Fashion, Nachhaltigkeit, Nachhaltigkeitsbericht, Standards, Lieferkette, SozialAudits, Sozial-Audits, Zulieferer, Bekleidungsindustrie, Monitoring, Globale Wertschöpfungskette, Textilindustrie

Kurzbeschreibung: 
In recent decades, the fast fashion industry has been characterized by widespread operations across both developing and developed countries. Due to the economic, social and environmental problems in developing countries, companies increasingly focus on sustainability and try to ensure the same quality and standards in working and production conditions throughout their supply chains. Although the tension in the exchange of resources between developing and developed countries lies at the heart of current sustainability activities, what these companies are actually doing to manage their supply chain has not yet been explored in depth in the literature. Drawing on the theoretical framework of Seuring and Müller (2008), the current study attempts to fill this void by conceptually mapping the current situation of sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) in the fast fashion industry by analysing reports from 9 companies that use the same reporting guidelines. The results of the study reveal that these companies focus significantly on supplier compliance with their code of conduct, employing further monitoring and auditing activities to prevent production problems in developing countries, improve overall supply chain performance and set sustainability criteria for their suppliers.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2014

Umfang: 12 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: Kapitel aus European Management Journal Volume 35, Issue 4: 35.95 €

Für Studenten und Fakultätsmitglieder ist diese Studie kostenfrei verfügbar.

Autor_in: Antonella Ceccagno

Schlagwörter: Fast Fashion, Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Italien, Niedriglohn, Bekleidungsindustrie, Migranten/innen, miserable Löhne, miserable Arbeitsbedingungen, Migrationsbewegungen, Globale Wertschöpfungskette, Textilindustrie

Kurzbeschreibung:
With new global processes affecting the fashion industry at a global level, everything has changed in the Italian fashion industry, especially since the 1980s. Antonella Ceccagno investigates and addresses three major global shifts in the fashion industry: the rise of low labor cost competitors, the restructuring of the distribution chain, and the emergence of a global fast fashion.
Moreover, and crucially, she shows that over the last 30 years, Italian immigration laws have been clearly and overtly devised with the aim of helping the Italian industrial system to find cheap labor. These laws were also crucial in increasing migrants’ vulnerability and forging divisions and stratification among migrants and within migrants sharing the same national background.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 43 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: Kapitel aus City Making and Global Labor Regimes (ISBN 978-3-319-59981-6): 29.69 €

Dieses Buch ist auch als Print-Version erhältlich.

Für Studenten und Fakultätsmitglieder mit Zugang zu Publikationen des Springer-Verlages ist dieses Kapitel kostenfrei verfügbar.

Herausgeber_in: Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

Schlagwörter:  Nachhaltigkeit, Bekleidungsindustrie, Textilindustrie, ökologisch, soziale und ökologische Folgen, Sozialstandards, Wirtschaftsfaktor, Zertifizierungen

Kurzbeschreibung:
This book examines in detail key aspects of sustainability in the textile industry, especially environmental, social and economic sustainability in the textiles and clothing sector. It highlights the various faces and facets of sustainability and their implications for textiles and the clothing sector.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 147 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Bezug: e-Book (ISBN 978-981-10-2639-3): 71,39 €

Das Buch ist auch als Print-Version erhältlich.

Für Studenten und Fakultätsmitglieder mit Zugang zu Publikationen des Springer-Verlages ist dieses e-Book kostenfrei verfügbar.

Herausgeber_in: Global Fashion Agenda & The Boston Consulting Group

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Bewertung, Fast Fashion, Konsum, Konsumverhalten, Lieferkette, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Ökobilanz, System, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion, Umweltschäden, Unternehmensverantwortung

Kurzbeschreibung:
The fashion industry has a clear opportunity tact differently, pursuing profit and growth while alscreating new value for the world economy. It comes with an urgent need tplace environmental, social and ethical improvements on management’s agenda. In the first Pulse of the Fashion Industry report (May 2017), The Global Fashion Agenda, in collaboration with The Boston Consulting Group, have made an in-depth assessment of the industry’s environmental and social performance. Drawing on the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index and a survey of more than 90 senior managers responsible for sustainability issues and a variety of other sources, it offers the first comprehensive common fact base on the health of the industry – with a “Pulse Score” by type of company, size, region and stage in the value chain.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 74 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei copenhagenfashionsummit.

Herausgeber_in: Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO), Action Labor Rights (ALR), Labour Rights Defenders and Promoters (LRDP)

Autor_in: Martje Theuws, Pauline Overeem

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Befragung, Einkaufspraktiken, Firmenbefragung, Gewerkschaft, Kinderarbeit, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Myanmar/Burma, Multi Stakeholder Initiativen, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion

Kurzbeschreibung:
The garment industry is one of the most labour-intensive manufacturing industries in the world. Clothing companies are constantly on the look-out for production locations that can make clothes quickly and at low costs. Over the past few years, Myanmar has rapidly become a popular sourcing destination for the garment industry – due ta huge pool of cheap labour and favourable import and export tariffs. However, working conditions in this industry are far from acceptable. Labour rights violations are rife. Workers whare bold enough may file complaints or resort topen protests, news of which sometimes finds its way intinternational media. More often, workers toil on in silence. As well as describing the most pressing problems, the authors of this report offer suggestions for constructive ways forward thead off a crisis before it escalates.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 139 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei somo.nl

Herausgeber_in: Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) , Human Rights Watch, International Corporate Accountability Roundtable (ICAR), International Labour Rights Forum ( ILRF), Maquila Solidarity Network, Worker Rights Consortium, IndustriALL, ITUC CSI IGB, UNI

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Firmenbefragung, Lieferkette, Textilindustrie, Transparenz

Kurzbeschreibung:
The garment and footwear industry stretches around the world. Clothes and shoes sold in stores in the US, Canada, Europe, and other parts of the world typically travel across the globe. They are cut and stitched in factories in Asia, Eastern Europe, Latin America, or other regions. Factory workers in Bangladesh or Romania could have made clothes only weeks agthat consumers elsewhere are eagerly picking up. When global supply chains are opaque, consumers often lack meaningful information about where their apparel was made. A T-shirt label might say “Made in China,” but in which of the country’s thousands of factories was this garment made? And under what conditions for workers? There is a growing trend of global apparel companies adopting supply chain transparency—starting with publishing the names, addresses, and other important information about factories manufacturing their branded products. Such transparency is a powerful tool for promoting corporate accountability for garment workers’ rights in global supply chains. Transparency can ensure identification of global apparel companies whose branded products are made in factories where bosses abuse workers’ rights. Garment workers, unions, and nongovernmental organizations can call on these apparel companies ttake steps tensure that abuses stop and workers get remedies. This report takes stock of supply chain transparency in the garment industry four years after the industry disasters in Bangladesh and Pakistan that shook the global garment industry. Tbuild momentum toward supply chain transparency and develop industry minimum standards, a coalition of labor and human rights groups asked 72 companies tagree timplement a simple Transparency Pledge. It alsasked that companies declining tcommit tthe Pledge provide reasons for choosing not tdso. Where companies engaged with the coalition, the coalition alssought additional information about their existing transparency practices. This report explains the logic and the urgency behind the Pledge and describes the responses we received from the companies contacted.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 20 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei bei Clean Clothes Campaign.

Herausgeber_in: Fair Wear Foundation
 
Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Kinderarbeit, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion, Türkei

Kurzbeschreibung:
The Syrian conflict may seem distant tfashion companies and consumers, but the war is having a direct impact on the garment sector through its supply chain. A growing number of Syrian children, hired in violation of International Labour Organisation (ILO) conventions that prohibit child labour, are used as cheap manpower in Turkish textile factories. Brands that only account for a small percentage of a factory’s production have limited leverage tdemand changes, which is why FWF encourages cooperation between members sourcing from the same suppliers tboost their influence. “If you’re lucky enough tfind other FWF members working with the same manufacturer, this is the best case scenario,” says Sven König. “You can combine corrective efforts and have more leverage, more impact.” Vaude won the 2015 FWF Best Practice award for a joint training project conducted in cooperation with twother companies, Jack Wolfskin and Salewa. Fair Wear Foundation is in favour of working together with other multi stakeholder initiatives like FLA and ETI. Creating an environment in which garment companies can be more honest about the darker sides of the industry and engage constructively with their suppliers would be an important step towards preventing child labour. “We want brands tbe frank and open about it,” says Margreet Vrieling of FWF. “Brands and suppliers must give each other room tdbusiness in a respectful way.”

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 6 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei fairwear.org

Herausgeber_in: Fair Wear Foundation

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Gewerkschaft, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion, Türkei, EU

Kurzbeschreibung:
The garment industry is Turkey’s second largest industry, and is responsible for a large proportion of Turkey’s total exports. The European Union is the largest purchaser of Turkish garment. Small and medium-sized factories with a wide sub-contractor chain dominate the industry, with the working conditions deteriorating down the supply chain. Therefore, although the industry is familiar with international workplace standards and the audits of international buyers, improvements are still needed in many aspects of labour conditions. The issue of unregistered employment is a growing concern throughout the garment industry. It is estimated that almost 70% of the total workforce in the sector is unregistered. This results in workers whare unable tassert their rights tsocial security, job security, freedom of association and right tcollective bargaining. In addition tunregistered employment, the current regulations in Turkey make unionisation a challenge. Although Turkey has ratified the relevant ILConventions, the country has been criticised by ILand the European Union for not complying with international standards on freedom of association and the right tcollective bargaining. A new Act on Trade Unions and Collective Labour Agreements was adopted and took effect in 2012, but the law continues tbe problematic when it comes tcompliance with ILstandards. The wage level in the garment industry is insufficient tprovide workers with a living wage. Although Turkey has the highest minimum wage among FWF priority countries, the legal minimum wage, which can be considered the industry’s average wage, is approximately 28% of the living wage estimates of local stakeholders.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 54 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei fairwear.org

Herausgeber_in: Fair Wear Foundation

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Gewerkschaft, Indonesien, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion

Kurzbeschreibung:
A significant contributor tIndonesia’s large economy, the garment industry is an important employer of women in both the formal and informal sector. Conditions at factories vary considerably, and are generally much worse in medium and small enterprises, which dnot attract the kinds of scrutiny that large suppliers tinternational brands are subjected to. The garment industry in Indonesia has received a great deal of attention from international and local NGOs and trade unions, but much remains tbe done before the standards embedded in FWF Code of Labour Practice are fully met even in the more compliant segments of the sector. In legal terms, Indonesia is highly compliant with ILcore conventions and other important human and labour rights instruments including CEDAW. Like many countries in the region, however, it continues texperience serious problems in terms of implementation of its legal framework. This has led tissues with freedom of association and the right tcollective bargaining; working hours and conditions, including the right of women tbe free of sexual harassment in the workplace; occupational health and safety; and the right ta living wage.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2017

Umfang: 47 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei fairwear.org

Herausgeber_in: Fair Wear Foundation

Schlagwörter: Arbeitsbedingungen, Arbeitsrechtsverletzungen, Arbeitszeiten, Gewerkschaft, Lohn, Menschenrechtsverletzungen, Myanmar/Burma, Textilindustrie, Textilproduktion

Kurzbeschreibung:
This country study should provide a clear and concise picture of the industry, labour law, labour conditions and industrial relations within the textile/garment industry. The study is prepared through gathering information about national laws and local stakeholders’ view on labour issues in the garment industry in Myanmar. Chapter 2, General country information, describes the economic, social, political, and governance situation as well as the general human rights situation, using international indicators and comparing the country tother garment producing countries. Chapter 3, Stakeholders, briefly presents the main stakeholders that are active in the garment/textile industry. The focus is on stakeholders which have an actual impact on labour conditions or play an active role in monitoring the situation for workers in the industry. This chapter serves as a reference point for stakeholders and brands that want tengage with or consult a local stakeholder tfind further information or help concerning their activities in Myanmar. Chapter 4, Garment industry, presents an overview of the situation for the garment industry in Myanmar, areas of production, products and prospects for the industry. Chapter 5, Industrial relations, describes the trade union situation in the country, both in general and specifically for the garment industry. This chapter gives important information for understanding how well challenges regarding working conditions could be handled through the country’s social dialogue, and how they currently are. In Chapter 6, Implementation of the FWF Code of Labour Practices, the implementation of every standard of the FWF Code of Labour Practices is assessed through official statistics on compliance (where available), laws and regulations, as well as different stakeholders views on implementation. Auditors and brands can use this section as a reference resource for their monitoring activities.

Erscheinungsjahr: 2016

Umfang: 63 Seiten

Sprache: Englisch

Zielgruppe: Erwachsene

Medien: Hintergrundinformationen

Bezug: kostenfrei zum Download bei fairwear.org